![]() This is due to the fact that the gas exchanges are modified.”Ĭelebrating New Year in Paris in 1933 with bottles of Moët et Chandon © Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty ImagesĪ magnum is twice the size of a 75cl bottle, but its neck, which always contains a little oxygen, is the same diameter this means the oxygen-to-champagne ratio in a magnum is much lower than in a bottle. “The taste is really different depending on the size of the bottle. “Time doesn’t flow the same way in a bottle, magnum or jeroboam,” says Bollinger chef de cave Denis Bunner. This was a bit of show-boating on Bollinger’s part, but the size of the bottle can dramatically affect the way a champagne ages. Opportunities to taste Bollinger RD (whose initials stands for “recently disgorged”) are few and far between – but it was even more unusual in this instance to taste it from a 75cl bottle, 1.5-litre magnum and three-litre jeroboam. The event marked the launch of Bollinger RD 2008, the pinnacle of the Bollinger range, which is aged for roughly twice as long on the lees as “regular” vintage Bollinger, for extra complexity. ![]() We were piped into dinner and served cognac in the drawing room after the speeches. The guests wore kilts and glittering evening gowns the tables groaned with silver and flowers. The other night I put on my favourite Alexander McQueen dress and went to an old-school black-tie party amid the gold-leaf splendour of Spencer House, an 18th-century aristocratic palace in St James’s.
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